The Flexible Chef
In Search of Perfect Osso Buco
November 25, 2014

This is my osso buco recipe — the one I first cooked at my restaurant, La Grille Bar et Restaurant, in very rural France in May 2003, just as the French summer had already commenced.

The Limousin diet consists mainly of meat, cheese, bread and red wine, as well as veal, which was readily available – and you need shin of veal for this – a little piece of Italy arrived one day in SW France. Just like all traditional and ample dishes, this is a one pot peasant recipe consisting of meat, a few vegetables, wine and stock. Plus garlic, of course.

Osso Buco means ‘bone with a hole’ and is made in many differing ways, depending on whose Nona had cooked it but mine is without tomatoes or cinnamon. I keep mine simple, and it works every time.

And as I happened to be in Granada last week, I fell upon a shin of veal without really looking; it would be rude not to cook Osso Buco.

In search of perfect osso buco — finished dish on a plate, raw veal shin pieces on a counter, and osso buco cooking in a pan

From counter to pan to plate — osso buco the way it should be done

The Osso Buco Recipe

This recipe doesn’t really work for one, so this is for four:

Dust 4 or more shins of veal in seasoned flour, shaking off the excess.
Brown the meat with olive oil in a pot, then set aside.
Make a mirepoix* (diced carrot, celery and onion) and fry in the same pot with a little butter until tender.
Add copious amounts of garlic cloves (15 in my case, cut in half), a few strips of lemon peel and a couple of bay leaves. Normally I would use sage leaves, but the herb garden is bare, save for mint. Mojito anyone?
Add back the meat. Grind over fresh black peppercorns.
Cook for a few minutes, then ramp up the heat, throwing in a BIG glass of dry white wine.
When the wine has reduced, top off with homemade chicken stock, making sure that things come up to a boil, then turn the heat to the lowest setting, cover and let things simmer for 1 ½ hours, turning the meat over from time to time.

It’s ready when the meat is falling away from the marrow bone.

Gremolata — The Finishing Touch

Now, here is the best part. Make a gremolata by grating lemon zest, grated garlic and finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, which you sprinkle over just before serving. Heaven or what?

Serve with mashed potato or crusty bread.

*I was in the south west of France earlier this month; there is actually a town called Mirepoix, but I don’t know what the relationship is with carrots, celery and onions.

I've since made a slow cooker version that's perfect for a lazy Sunday — read my slow cooker osso buco. And for a simpler one-pan take, try my osso buco with white beans and lemon zest.

This recipe is part of my Beef and Veal Recipes collection — from quick weeknight beef mince suppers to slow-braised veal dishes worth waiting for, all gathered in one place.

This Osso Buco recipe is also part of the Slow Cooker & Slow Cooking Recipes collection — braised meat, one-pot casseroles, confit, and slow roasts from Casa Adora and the road, gathered in one place. Browse all recipes here.

Wonky photos, proper food, genuine adventures — The Flexible Chef

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4 comments on “In Search of Perfect Osso Buco”

  1. I think red, white or rose works with this but I would go with a young Spanish Tempranillo from Valdepeñas. Reasonably priced and very good. I hope you enjoy it.

  2. Oooh la la. Italian shin of veal with French and Spanish connections. I love it and the gremolata finishes it off with aplomb. Bon appetite from South East France. Molly & Sally. X

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