Visiting New Delhi is not complete without a trip to the 17th century market. It is one of India’s largest.

Kalu travels 40km (each-way) every day to Delhi by bus just so that he can cycle a rickshaw that he doesn’t even own. It is a very tough life and this day he peddled his rickshaw around the market of Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi carrying Tony and I. We stopped at the spice market, of course.

It is loud and dirty but vibrant – the wholesale spices are traded and sold in an old Mughal building which seems to be held together by prayers alone.