Rabitena is a man in his sixties who rears lambs in Alcaudete. His father — who was born in La Rábita, hence the name — did the same. And his father's father, and the one before that. When Rabitena dispatches one of his lambs, he defies any diktat from Brussels or anywhere else that might seek to stop what has gone on for generations in this part of Andalucía.

I chose one. I watched it peacefully dispatched, skinned, gutted and cleaned. It was done with love, with skill, and with a quiet dignity that most people who eat meat will never witness. I swilled an obligatory bottle of very cold Cruzcampo throughout.

Lambs Grazing Andalucía – The Flexible Chef

I know I am at the top of the food chain, and I have no hang-ups about what I eat. But I do believe I have more of a conscience than most supermarket shoppers — not because I am virtuous, but because I know where my food has been. Reared carefully, traceable, and treated with respect. Given freedom, fresh air and a half-decent diet before being dispatched to the great farmyard in the sky, where my dad now lives.

I am not extreme about any of this. You will never find me on a protest march. I think about the pollution from the thousands of flights crossing our skies every day too, and it doesn't stop me from flying. I hold these contradictions without too much difficulty.

I eat most things. Chicken feet included. I draw the line at sheep's eyes.

I no longer source my lamb from Rabitena — these days it comes from a farm in a hamlet close to my village, where the same values apply. The traceability, the care, the respect for the animal. That matters more to me than anything else.

Footnote: Find more recipes and food adventures here.

Wonky photos, proper food, genuine adventures – The Flexible Chef