Chaat masala is one of those spice blends that doesn't translate neatly into Western cooking vocabulary. It's Pakistani and North Indian in origin, both sweet and sour simultaneously, and it does something unexpected to almost anything you put it on. I first encountered it properly on a street food stall in Kolkata during 32 days on Indian trains – pani puri with tamarind water, eaten standing up, wondering what on earth I was tasting. The answer, in part, was chaat masala.

Back at Casa Adora, I've been making my own version ever since. There are as many versions as there are households that make it — this one is mine.

Chaat masala recipe as a fish rub — Casa Adora 2014 – The Flexible Chef

A note on the unusual ingredients

Two ingredients here are worth tracking down specifically.

Amchoor – dried mango powder – is the source of the sour note. It's easy to find online and worth having in the spice cupboard for more than just this blend.

Kala Namak, or Indian black salt, is another example. Despite its name, it's actually a pinkish-grey powder with a distinctive sulphurous edge that gives chaat masala its characteristic depth. It's harder to find than amchoor — I haven't located it in rural Spain — but it's available online if you search for it. Without it the blend is still enjoyable; with it, it's the real thing.

The Chaat Masala Recipe

Ingredients

• 1 tbsp roasted cumin seeds
• 1 tbsp roasted fennel seeds
• ½ tbsp garam masala
• ½ tbsp amchoor (dried mango powder)
• ½ tbsp kala namak (Indian black salt)
• ½ tsp cayenne pepper
• ½ tsp ground ginger
• ½ tsp roasted black peppercorns
• Pinch of asafoetida

Method

1. Dry-fry the cumin seeds, fennel seeds and black peppercorns in a pan over a medium heat until they begin to release their oils. Don't burn them — you'll know they're ready when the kitchen smells wonderful.
2. Leave to cool completely.
3. Add all the ingredients to a spice grinder and pulse until you have a fine powder.
4. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dark place. It will keep for a couple of months — though I prefer to grind it fresh as needed.

What to do with it

On the day I ground this batch, I used it as a rub for fish — two fillets baked in the oven with a little olive oil, garlic and chilli, served with green beans and a simple vegetable salad. A reader from India told me the fish looked so good she mistook it for an actual chaat dish. I'll take that.

It works equally well sprinkled over roasted vegetables, stirred into yoghurt as a dip, or used wherever you want that sweet-sour-spiced note. A pinch over a curry is not a bad idea either.

Footnote This chaat masala recipe is part of my Curry Recipes collection — the complete guide to curries, spice blends, bases, chutneys and sides from The Flexible Chef. Explore the full Curry Recipes hub.

Wonky photos, proper food, genuine adventures — The Flexible Chef