Some lamb shank recipes are planned. This one wasn't.

The French call it 'souris d'agneau' — mouse of lamb — named for the way the meat sits on the bone. It's a more elegant name for a cut that deserves one. And this particular lamb shank recipe goes back to 1985, when my late ex-sister-in-law handed me a newspaper clipping. Lamb shanks cooked with tomatoes, white grapes and rosemary. It sounded unusual enough that I had to try it.

Then things started falling into place.

It was Easter weekend, my birthday, and I'd booked myself onto a campsite. I hadn't expected to find lamb shanks, but there they were in the supermarket. No rosemary, though – but that didn't matter. The campsite had a large rosemary bush right by the entrance.

And then there was Luis, the owner, who handed me a small bottle of his own unfiltered olive oil as a gift.

That meal cooked itself, really.

The Way I Cook It Now

I'd forgotten I even had my Le Creuset tucked away in the storage area under the bottom bunk — the one I usually take for winter trips. But it came with me, and it earned its place that day.

This souris d'agneau is still how I make it: one pot, slow, forgiving, and no fuss. Just a bit more understanding of what's going on in the pan. It works beautifully on a campervan gas hob — you'll need a diffuser, which costs a few euros and is worth keeping in the van. Without one, just watch the pot carefully and keep the heat as low as your hob will allow.

Lamb shank recipe

Ingredients (serves one, generously)

• 1 lamb shank (souris d'agneau)
• A good glug of olive oil — Luis's if you have it; otherwise, use the best you've got
• ½ onion, chopped
• 1 garlic clove
• A big pinch of dried red chilli flakes
• Around 300g chopped tomatoes – don't overdo it
• A small sprig of fresh rosemary
• 10–12 white seedless grapes
• A small glass of dry white wine or water
• Sea salt — Maldon if you have it
• Black pepper

Method

Start with the pot directly on the heat — no diffuser yet.

Add the olive oil and brown the lamb shank properly. Take your time. You're looking for a deep, rich colour — this is where the flavour of your lamb shank recipe begins. Set the shank aside.

In the same pot, lower the heat and add the onion with a pinch of salt. Let it soften. Add the garlic and chilli flakes and cook briefly — just enough for the chilli to release its warmth into the oil.

Return the souris d'agneau to the pot. Add the tomatoes — just enough to come partway up the meat — a small splash of liquid, and the rosemary.

Now bring in the diffuser. Turn the heat down low, lid slightly ajar, and let it tick over gently for a couple of hours. Not boiling, not completely still — just the occasional lazy bubble.

Turn the shank once or twice if you remember.

Check the pot occasionally — if it looks dry, add a small splash of water, stock or wine.

About 25 minutes before the end, add the grapes. Some will hold their shape; others will soften into the sauce. That's exactly what you want.

For the final stretch, take the lid off and let the sauce reduce until it thickens and clings. Taste and adjust with salt and pepper if needed.

How to Eat It

No ceremony.

The souris d'agneau goes in a bowl, sauce over the top, grapes dotted through. And alongside it, a chunk of sourdough a few days old – chewy, slightly resistant, perfect for mopping up something rich.

Fresh bread wouldn't be right here.

A Final Thought

Looking back, that lamb shank recipe worked because of everything around it, as well as what went into it— the rosemary bush, the olive oil from Luis, and the fact that I hadn't planned any of it.

You can recreate the method. You can get very close to the flavour.

But part of what made it special was that it wasn't trying to be.

That's something worth remembering.

This recipe also features in my Campervan Cooking Recipes hub — the complete collection of recipes actually cooked on the road in Florie.

This recipe is part of the Lamb & Goat collection — lamb and goat recipes from Casa Adora and the road.

This souris d'agneau is also featured in my French Recipes — a collection of French recipes from a former Limousin restaurateur — confit, braises, fish, gratins, and van life French cooking from Casa Adora and the road.

This recipe is also part of the Slow Cooker & Slow Cooking Recipes collection — braised meat, one-pot casseroles, confit, and slow roasts from Casa Adora and the road, gathered in one place. Browse all recipes here.

Wonky photos, proper food, genuine adventures — The Flexible Chef