Kashmiri Kabargah – Fried Lamb Ribs

Kashmiri lamb ribs — known as kabargah — are one of the great dishes of a region more often in the news for conflict than for cooking. Kashmir sits at the intersection of three countries — disputed between India, Pakistan and China, a region of extraordinary beauty and persistent turmoil. Yet somehow, through all of it, the food endures. Kabargah is traditionally served as part of a wazwan — the elaborate multi-course feast that defines Kashmiri hospitality. It is rich, aromatic, and more involved than it looks.

I travelled around India for 32 days by train some years ago — you can read about what that did to my appetite here — but Kashmir was not on that itinerary. This dish came to me through the kitchen rather than the road, which is how it often goes.

Three stages, one result — kabargah, crisp and golden - The Flexible Chef

How Kashmiri Lamb Ribs are Cooked

Kabargah is traditionally made with mutton or goat ribs. The technique is the point: the ribs are first blanched, then slow-cooked in spiced milk until tender, then coated in spiced yoghurt and fried in ghee until crisp and golden. Three stages, each doing something distinct. The milk poach is the step most people skip and shouldn't — it draws out impurities, softens the meat, and infuses it with fennel, star anise and a whisper of asafoetida.

Asafoetida — also known as hing — is a dried resin with a pungent, sulphurous smell straight from the jar that mellows completely when cooked into something savoury and deeply fragrant. A pinch is all you need.

The spice paste uses homemade garam masala — worth making your own if you haven't already.

Kabargah is often served with mango chutney, which cuts through the richness beautifully. My Nearly Patak's Mango Chutney is made from scratch and considerably chunkier than the jar.

Kashmiri Kabargah – Fried Lamb Ribs

Serves 2–3

For the ribs

• 500g lamb or goat ribs
• 500ml milk
• 1 tsp homemade garam masala
• Pinch of asafoetida
• Pinch of sea salt
• 1 star anise
• 1 tsp fennel seeds
• Water to top up

For the yoghurt coating

• 4 tbsp Greek yoghurt
• 1 tsp chilli powder
• ½ tsp garam masala
• ½ tsp turmeric
• Pinch of sea salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Ghee for frying

Method

Mix the yoghurt coating ingredients together in a bowl and set aside.

Bring a saucepan of water to a rolling boil and add the ribs. Keep at a rolling boil, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. When no further foam appears, the ribs are ready. Remove and rinse.

Place the rinsed ribs in a clean saucepan. Cover with the milk, topping up with water if needed. Bring to the boil, then add the garam masala, asafoetida, salt, star anise and fennel seeds. Reduce the heat and simmer gently until the milk has virtually evaporated and the ribs are fork tender.

Drain the ribs over a rack and discard the star anise.

Dip each rib in the yoghurt mixture, coating well.

Heat the ghee in a korai — a deep, bowl-shaped Indian frying pan — or a wok or wide frying pan. Fry the ribs in batches until crisp and golden on all sides.

Serve with mango chutney. This recipe also works well with chops.

FOOTNOTE

This Kashmiri lamb ribs recipe is part of the Lamb & Goat Hub — a collection of lamb and goat recipes from Casa Adora and the road. Explore the full collection.

Wonky photos, proper food, genuine adventures – The Flexible Chef.